Lucas Type 2: real patterns and hands on experience

[oleg]

Hi Con,

I saw your shoes while searching for reconstructed models in the internet, not only this pair.
Are you sure that this one is Type 2? It looks quite different, I mean horizontal cut on the toe and seams. I've seen similar pattern in a book by M.Hald - Primitive Shoes. Fig.75 Wedelspang Mose.

[oleg]

Con,

I've seen similar pattern in a book by M.Hald - Primitive Shoes. Fig.75 Wedelspang Mose.

Yet another example from free source: figure 1599 from page 3279, Leather and leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York.
http://www.yorkarchaeology.co.uk/resour ... orking.pdf

[oleg]

Some hands on from our Russian mates. As you see, original pattern is far from ideal.

[oleg]

Ok, here is my part of seams and experiments:

[consmiles]

Hi Oleg,
like I said - "my first effort at a pair of Lucas Type 2 shoes". The pattern shown in my copy of the journal where AT Lucas describes the type 2 cannot be made to give to finish required. It is not his pattern but it is noted as "after Lucas".
I've got the heel close, the centre seam, the slots for the tie down bands as best as I could. From this I can make a closer pattern that gives an upturned toe and I'll easily hide the centre seam. My reckoning is that there must be short hidden seams to the left and right of the central seam at the big toe - its my opinion that without this the up turned toe cannot be created and sustained.
I'll post here when I make my next pair of Ltype2, they'll be size 10 to fit me - I'll even copy the graphics...
Regards
Con

[oleg]

Upturned toe becomes real with tanned leather. You can sew it and stretch or stretch and then sew.
Will post my pictures later.

[consmiles]

Hi Oleg
I agree that "Upturned toe becomes real with tanned leather." But as all my craft work is with vege tan leather - I suggest that there may be a pre-sewing option - that is to say the pattern must be first and foremost... other than "You can sew it and stretch or stretch and then sew" which with due respect is the re-enactor option...

My reasoning is that must be there is a left and a right shoe i.e. differentiation see image below - and that this implies the pattern has primacy ...and that this primarily determines the end product. Bad sewing or stretching leather doesn't declare skill...

"Will post my pictures later." = Mine too but I'm busy - have Viking age leg armor for a big Gael warrior and Norman period arm armor for a dangerous sleek invader to finish first... and I'm behind with both orders. IMHO a Lucas Type 2 shoe was in all probability very common in the 10 and 11hundreds for the Gael. 40 specimens are claimed. I hope to be one of those who bring the style it back ...

[oleg]

Here is going to be some progress report.
There is a last video with something that will become a shoe. It has vamp seam and toe curved up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTQJXrTt7us

Vamp seam is a running stitch, pulled tightly (see images in this thread). Edges are bevelled.

There were a couple of design issues:
1) turning inside out. It was quite hard, even using wet leather.
2) shoe is getting more "pointy", this is my fault during pattern adoption - I know where it comes from, so I hope to get it corrected in future versions.
3) During stretching central part became more wide than it should. Hope to narrow it using laces on the later stage.

[consmiles]

I have made them, have a pattern that I cant share as I got if for free someone who makes shoes professionally on the basis that I wouldnt
Key stuff:
-Single piece of leather. You can make a pattern using cloth wrapped in tape and then marked and cut
- a critical bit of the heel assembly is that the vertical seam needs to be disrupted by a tongue type overlap - think of an upside down L ...essentiall a vertical tear is limited by the horizontal stitches

A nice bit felted fleece for the insoles is also a must...oh and dont wear on gravel!

IF shoes is your thing then get the book Stepping Through Time. It is expensive but has literally hundreds of patterns

Hi Brendan,
You say you have made a pair of LT2 shoes from a pattern you cannot share. Are you allowed to show photo's of these shoes? Does not matter what condition they are in - please show a photo or two. Please give a link or the name of the professional shoemaker who made them as I'd very much like to know of his or her work.

[oleg]

Hi,

There is an update. Recent shoe attempt.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VY1Q8XikHlU

The leather is not veg tanned and not so thick as on Leitrim shoe, so my "try and fail" research will continue .